Proper Care for Ethiopian Opal Jewelry

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14kt Gold and Sterling Silver Heart Pendant by David Nugent of Evensong Jewelry. Set with a natural Ethiopian opal cabochon by Robert Lang of Arpaia Lang. Before setting the stone, Robert applied a layer of dark blue enamel to inside bezel mounting – the dark background enhances opal’s play of color.

About Ethiopian Opal

Precious opal was discovered in Mezezo, Ethiopia back in the early 1990s, but it was not sufficiently stable for jewelry use due to cracking.

In 2008, Ethiopia’s Wollo province became a source of white precious opal and crystal opal, and in 2013, Wollo also became a producer of dark and black precious opal.

Gem quality opals from the Wollo province are more stable, and have been steadily increasing market share in the jewelry industry due to very attractive play of color and price point.

Precious opals from Australia and several other known sources originate in sedimentary rock. Ethiopian opals originate in volcanic rock. The more porous structure of Ethiopian opal absorbs water in a manner similar to that of a sponge, and this “hydrophane” property affects the transparency of Ethiopian opal when immersed in water.

Care of Ethiopian Opal

It is the hydrophane nature of Ethiopian opal that is pertinent to its care as a gemstone.

At GIA’s 96th Gemstone Gathering in Bangkok earlier this month, Jeffery Bergman, Director and founder of Primagem based in Thailand, presented an examination of Ethiopian opal  as relates to possible treatments. Bergman is an American gemstone dealer with 40 years experience in the mining, cutting, and the wholesaling and retailing of gemstones and fine jewelry.

After preliminary research, Bergman concluded that contact with oils or other liquids may result in a reduction of play-of-color and possible permanent damage to Ethiopian opal. In particular, Bergman advised that Ethiopian opal beads should be worn only over clothing and should not come in contact with skin where they can absorb perspiration.

The beauty and affordability of Ethiopian opal are compelling. As we learn more about this wondrous gem, we will learn more about its recommended care.

In the meantime, prudence dictates that Ethiopian opals are best mounted in protective settings that keep these gems away from direct contact with skin. Also, Ethiopian opals do not benefit from a water bath, and in fact, could be damaged from immersion.

As with all opals, Ethiopian opals should not be cleaned by steam, in an ultrasonic cleaner, or with any harsh cleaning agents. In addition, Ethiopian opals should not be cleaned with warm soapy water because of its hydrophane nature – cleaning an Ethiopian opal with soapy water or other liquids could cause contamination of the gem if any residue remains in the opal after drying. Trapped residue could reduce play of color, negatively affect transparency, change the gem’s bodycolor, or cause internal cracking.

After every wear, the best cleaning method for Ethiopian opal jewelry is to use a clean, soft, dry microfiber cloth to gently remove fingerprints, dirt, residue, and oils. 

Short-term contact with plain water does not seem to harm gem quality Ethiopian opals. If a hydrophane opal gets wet from rain or other cause, simply dry off surface with a clean microfiber cloth and then let the stone naturally air dry for 24 hours – any absorbed water will leave the stone and its play of color should be restored to its previous state without any cracking. Do not attempt to speed up the natural air-drying process by applying heat of any kind.

Click this link to view video of Jeffery Bergman’s presentation on “Opal Treatments: Facts, Fears & Fairytales.”

On a final note: This post is meant to be helpful on a topic of general interest and may contain unintended inaccuracies. It is expressly not intended to give advice about the care of any particular piece of jewelry, and as such, this post should not be relied upon for that purpose. Any questions about jewelry care should always be directed to the manufacturer or place of purchase, as these parties are in the best position to give advice about the care and cleaning of the jewelry and gemstones that they sell in the wholesale and/or retail markets.

All gemstone jewelry by Arpaia Jewelry comes with a microfiber cleaning cloth, and care instructions are provided at time of purchase. Click this link for more detailed information on jewelry care.

Juicy Jewelry News!



New Digital GIA Diamond Focus Report for Natural Diamonds Between 0.15 and 0.29 Carats

“Snow Flowers” one-of-a-kind Platinum, Diamond & Cultured Pearl Earrings by Arpaia Lang

For decades, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has issued certified Diamond Grading Reports documenting the 4Cs of diamond quality – clarity, color, cut, and carat weight – as well as, shape, proportions, finish, and treatments.

On August 3, 2015, GIA began offering a Diamond Focus Report to meet industry and consumer demand for rigorous independent grading of smaller diamonds. The Diamond Focus Report is a new low-cost digital report for natural, round brilliant-cut diamonds in the D-to-Z color range (not fancy colors) between 0.15 and 0.29 carats.

The report provides carat weight, color, clarity, and cut grades, polish and symmetry grade, and fluorescence description. Laser inscription of the GIA report number is included, and the results are available through GIA’s online Report Check.

A printed report is not provided with this service. Cost of the Diamond Focus Report by GIA labs in Carlsbad, CA and New York, NY is $20 each for diamonds 0.15 – 0.22 carats and $22 each for diamonds 0.23 – 0.29 carats.


LOVE LOVE LOVE! Fringe Collection in Sterling Silver by Coomi


By Kimberly Arpaia: The Fringe Collection by Coomi is fabricated in both 20kt yellow gold and in sterling silver. While both metals are stunning, I absolutely adore Coomi’s silver fringe jewelry, and if I were in a position, I would layer myself in this collection! Some silver pieces are beautifully paired with gold, like the cuff below, and many are studded with tiny diamonds that drip or glimmer at the edges. As a fine jewelry designer, I appreciate the gorgeous details that blend in such a hypnotic, harmonious way, with a palpable tribal spirit.

Breathtaking and beautifully designed – lucky Neiman Marcus is the exclusive retail place to shop this line. Click on this link to check out collection and pricing.